I need some unsee juice
I need some unsee juice
I think it’s a good added measure to stop a print, in this case something caused the spaghetti, it would have kept causing spaghetti but the cover popping off stopped the print. I’ve got about 400 hrs on my p1s (upgraded from p1p), and I’ve never had the faceplate pop off. I would guess this is an isolated incident.
Having six throwing stars and a shitload of buffs… as a potato
Love it when printers actually solve a problem!
Same issue, been going on for months now. I read somewhere that it has to do with the Jerboa client and an upcoming update is supposed to fix it…
Try using adaptive layer height, it’s the icon with 4 horizontal lines up top. Click adaptive and move the slider left for quality. Then look on the right hand side at the bar running vertically. Try to make it all green by moving the light color line to the left. Worth a shot and costs you nothing other than some filament and time. Solved a bunch of my issues on my p1p/s
What can I say, I’m a middle-of-the-road type guy
68 wide, of course!
SCSI>USB-C
I agree, if you’re not having issues and are otherwise happy with the output. I went the DD route after my extruder cracked, and at the time the (slight) speed increase I was able to get on my e3v2 was worth it. The NG setup is quite good if you do choose to go that route, however.
I have the microswiss NG/DD setup on my ender, works considerably better than stock. It is expensive though. Note that the nozzle that comes with it isn’t hardened (at least mine wasnt), so if you’re going to do filled / abrasive filaments you’ll definitely want to change that out. Also note that once you change to DD your steps will need to be recalibrate, but the microswiss website walks you through all of it
Stephen King’s latest novel, “Worm Semetary”
Would seem odd, but if it seems like your leveling wheels are backing off, maybe the threads are worn on them? It would suck to replace them only to find out that wasn’t the issue though, but if you have a spare set / originals if you’ve upgraded, maybe see if those are more stable?
^^this. Also if you open up the screen, maybe someone tried to flash it and left the SD card inside, that will cause this too. Ask me how I know 🤦♂️
I think it’s “Ze German” in me that wants to build a printer from scratch lol. That, and 350x350 core xy sounds like fun. I need to have at least three unfinished projects going at once to feel sane 🤣
How do you like the Qidi? Sorry I’ve been neglecting this group for a while if you’ve been “harping” on them… I saw a couple reviews and they looked interesting
Firmware is closed, yes. Bambu’s slicer is just a skinned version of Prusaslicer though. Which, tbh, is kind of scummy lol.
At some point I’ll take the Voron plunge, but for now I’ll just watch my p1s shake all over the place on its silly rubber feet 😂
Having finally seen a Prusa in action, I would have to say they’re both great printers (I have a p1p that I upgraded to a p1s). I understand the arguments against Bambu, but honestly if you’re not printing anything overtly illegal or truly creating things you plan on copyrighting, you’re fine, and if you are that paranoid, you can remove the tape behind the front faceplate and simply unplug the wifi antenna and just print from the SD card, just save in .3mf
Think of the two as Android (Prusa) vs Apple (Bambu). Both will do the job just fine, just depends on which ecosystem you prefer.
🤢🤮