Not by default. It remembers the MAC for each specific network. This is because sometimes you want to have specific device on the same IP all the time. The DHCP decides this via the MAC.

If you want it truly randomised every time you need to turn on non persistent MAC randomisation in the developer option.

You’re right, context is important here.

The image came from a twitter post. „Heat index“ means basically „Feels like“.

https://www.timeanddate.com/weather/iran/bandar-abbas/historic?hd=20230808

Doesn’t mean it was fucking hot tho.

That is correct, this is the standard procedure to dry PCBAs.

You lost your pad. This usually happens if you have old PCBs which were exposed to some air humidity over time. The pad heats up and the moisture evaporates between the layers, separating the pad and the PCB base material. More heat increases the likelihood of that happening.

That part is unsolderable now. You need to connect at a different place and reconnect any interrupted traces or glue the pad back to the board, if you can.

Game controllers in general are very hard to repair since they contain large copper layers to withstand forces from the controls. It’s very common to loose pads or lift THT holes.

That said, most often nothing is ever beyond repair. It’s usually just a matter of skills and tools which are available.

Central aircon is pretty standard for most large buildings but individual aircon systems for private housing is rare, mainly because it is only very hot for a short period of time.

You have nothing to hide, right?

Around 2005 Europeans used SMS quite often while the US didn’t seem to use it at all. Then a few years later it was all done by WhatsApp since it was more or less for free. And now we’re having blue/green bubble discussions.

Have we gone full circle and are using actual SMS again?

The lines from an USB wire are very thin. Any tip should do.

Is the solder melting and sticking to the tip? Can you pre-tin the wires or are they coated? Can you upload a picture of what you are trying to do?

What temperature are you using?

You’re right of course. Two more questions if you don’t mind:

• 1. what’s the 1k || 100k doing?
• 2. if you don’t want more than 5V at the output of the OpAmp, wouldn’t it be easier to just supply the OpAmp with 5V instead of adding a shottky diode which has a forward voltage of around 0.6V? As I understand the screenshot the voltage is 5.4V at that exact point and it could theoretically raise to 5.6V.

At the moment you’re also mixing up your + input. 10V AC + 5V DC result in 7.5V input in your sim.

Papilio machaon (Old World swallowtail)

So what should happen if you replace the 1k in the inverting loop by 0 Ohm is, you should get a 5V square wave.

Is that correct?

Exiting! It has been some time for me too, let me know how you solved the problem at the end.

In my opinion an oscillator always produces an AC sine wave. There is usually no need for a DC overlapped oscillator signal. The DC supply of an oscillator produces a AC sine wave relative to GND.

Where exactly did you measure a DC sine wave, relative to what, and what do you mean by “AC removes a DC component”?

Supply the OpAmp with +/-12V or +5/0V and use a non inverting Summing OpAmp Circuit to get your 0-5V signal. V1 is 5V, V2 your input.

Not entirely sure, but maybe these help you somehow:

The relay has a coil which requires 0.35W. The chip seems to have a maximum output current of 35mA.

The ‚switch on current‘ of an inductive load is usually 3 to 5 times higher than the ‚hold‘ current.

The valve may not have a free-wheeling-diode. This could create an issue by creating strange voltage spikes on all your supply voltages (connected by GND).

Paywall removed:

https://12ft.io/proxy?q=https://www.theatlantic.com/technology/archive/2023/07/twitter-outage-elon-musk-user-restrictions/674609/

the first thing i’d do is connect the GND from your arduino and from your power supply. At the moment there does not seem to be a common ground or it is off picture.