I’d go with a good quality traditional key lock fitted properly in a good door and frame. Security isn’t a single point task, it depends on many things so think like a bad person and do what you can to make your property a harder target than your neighbours.

A good lock on a bad door doesn’t work, neither does a bad lock on a good door. Everything needs to work together. If you’re likely to lose your keys or many people need access a smart lock may be an idea, but good probably isn’t cheap. If it’s just you and you can keep your keys safe, then I think tried, tested and simple kit is good.

Ultimately though, as ever, it’s your risk assessment based on your needs.

If you watch lock picking lawyer, you may as well just leave it open. Most smart locks seem to prioritise convenience over security. -possibly check that your insurance is happy with a smart lock.

There’s a good chance that it’s the capacitors in the PSU that have failed. It’s always the caps! Should be a very doable repair.

Ermmm… If you use several pins to get the current rating, what happens if one of the pins fails or gets corroded? Won’t you risk generating heat? Think I’d prefer nice big connectors for the power and to keep the data lines safely segregated. Depends on your needs and design I suppose.

It’s like everything, practice slowly, get good form wired in, then when you write fast for exams your writing will be worse than normal, but still legible.

Practice writing slowly and with good form. Write regularly, give yourself practice pieces. At uni you will be writing FAST, so it’ll get worse if you don’t keep disciplined.

Alternatively, learn to touch type, and type any work you need to hand in. - if your handwriting is so bad, you may want to make your notes legible to yourself for revision.

Brilliant, many thanks. With all the old phones in my cupboards I’d hoped this was the answer, but it’s good to get a second opinion.

This is very interesting. Have you considered studying social engineering? - I’ve found SE techniques quite understandable to help form a process to deal with people in a ‘useful’ way. Many years ago I was sent on a positive influencing course via work and discovered that most NTs can be quite easily manipulated with a few simple tricks. In the end I stopped using them as it felt unfair.

Butt your enclosure right up against the lock body, then you reduce shearing forces trying to pull it off the door. Extend the pull bar through your enclosure so you still have a manual override.

While I’m not adverse to home automation, is this something you need in your life, or just want? I like my perimeter security too be simple and tight, extra complications make the security audit much harder.

Will your insurance stand up to home made remote control unlocking?

To answer your question, place the servo in a suitably large enclosure and practically any adhesive should work, e.g. 3mM command strips or even velcro or double sided sticky. When confident that this is what you want, use a screw.

I’ve avoided the conversation entirely. Ever since the pandemic I’ve done my own hair with clippers. Made a good enough job of it, even if I’ve sometimes needed to do a small adjustment the next day.

For a simple style it’s not that difficult if you take your time.

Yes prime minister is the most accurate documentary about British politics of all time.

Do you on now anyone who uses disposable vapes? There may be a useful battery in one of those if you can’t find an alternative.

Why wasn’t there security on the device? My works devices are password protected and it’s a disciplinary offence if I share passwords or give unauthorized access.

If he gave them the login creds, then he should be penalised .

If he logged in and gave the device to non parliamentary staff, he should also be penalised.

He got caught because it cost money, which is the lesser offence. Cyber security should be more robust for ministers than it is for most companies, but seemingly not.

Arduino and esp32 are both good places to start. On YouTube look up ralph s bacon I think he is - He does lots of microcontroller stuff, and of course the likes of big clive will teach you all about basic electronic circuits.

If you’re a complete newbie, get a kit and work through the tutorials.

Stuff you’ll need at first is a microcontroller, prototyping breadboard and a few components (should all come in the kit of you go that route). When you have something that works that you want to keep, you can think about a cheap (ish) soldering station and either veroboard, or look into getting your own boards made.

A multimeter will help a lot (cheapish will do) and depending on how deep you get, a bench power supply and an oscilloscope, but you can live without those for a while.

Get good quality solder, and using extra food quality flux changed the game for me. If you are an older person, magnification really helps too!

Get components in 10’s or more as you’ll save a little and it doesn’t matter much if you let out the magic smoke. For hobby stuff, Alix is your friend.

Have fun.

many technical jobs are vocational in nature as it’s impossible to turn it off after work. As long as it’s not affecting your personal life & work life balance (and not affecting your friends and relations) then you are very lucky. Most people don’t enjoy their work so you’re in a good place. Importantly though, don’t feel obligated to do work problems on your own time and don’t let management expect it. Only do it if you want to.

I like the saying “give a man a job he loves and he’ll never work again”. it’s been true for much of my working life.

It’s a while since I’ve wild camped so not sure if the status has changed. When I did it was more ‘accepted’ than ‘permitted’. Also, the good spots are closely guarded secrets, so you’re mostly on your own there! I don’t know you’re experience, but for anyone else thinking about wild camping: You want water relatively accessible and depending on the weather, some shelter. (I’ve always drunk from fast flowing streams, never pools and survived without treating the water. You also want seclusion as you really don’t want to be getting any attention from walkers or land owners.

This time of year you won’t be getting much sleep, so decide if you want the evening or morning sun - I prefer the morning sun as it dries any dew off my kit. Looking at the map you should be able to plan a route and spot some quite nice spots if you think about the above. Only spend one night in a location.

I used to leave work early, drive down, get half a walk in, a night camp, finish the walk and be back to work for 9AM. One memorable morning was waking up on top of one of the Carnedds.

My preference was always to bivvi rather than tent as it was easier to carry and far easier to find a hidden spot. - The pleasure, as with most bivvying is generally retrospecive, but great fun. Pitch up at dusk and leave at first light, leave no trace bar some flattened grass and all is good. - Just make sure you pack enough calories and water.

The first wild camp I ever did was on the side of Tryfan in just my sleeping bag on a clump of heather. It would had been perfect if I hadn’t put my hand in goat muck earlier in the evening. - Took two days to wash the stink out.

Happy days. Have fun.